Ways to call a lot of sand a country

This might come across as being funny to one or the other …. Definitely not for someone having a car wreckage on the way! Because service stations around here are rare! This should not be taken as a criticism – it’s simply a fact. More accurately said – just one spotted traveling all day long! What looks like a big city on the map (set as little square boxes instead of small round dots) finally turns out to be a fuelling station with a tiny snack bar attached!

Arriving at Sesriem Gate shortly after sun set on this 11th day of June I was immediately confronted with the draconic rules of the desert – at least effective for us – the tourists. As mentioned afore, our arrival was shortly after sun set at the outer gate – the latter being already firmly shut down already!

A slightly grumpy looking local guy on night-watch – who, by the way, has only one assignment there which is to guard the gate – asked my demand and then handed over a hand-written slip of paper allowing me to enter. Politely thanking him, I asked if it would be possible to leave again in the same direction for dinner without losing the permission of an overnight space. He nodded sort of friendly and so I – feeling relieved - drove over to the Sussos Vlei Lodge which happened to be about one minute away by car.

Dinner was quite unspectacular apart from the fact that one sits outdoor in the middle of the Namibian winter with temperatures around 8 to 10 degrees Centigrade enjoying grilled Zebra, Kudu, Oryx and Ostrich steaks. Gas-fired heaters positioned right next to each table enabled all of us to survive the cold and to experience a gorgeous starry sky even transformed the normal dinner into a sensation! After melting comfortably into the immediate environment and feeling completely relaxed, it went back to the camping site.

This also means that somebody looking for the Sossus Vlei for the first time probably may not even find it – even if standing right in the middle of the pan! Simply because an empty pan is definitely not breathtaking at all – with zilch in and around it!! This circumstance prompted me to clamber up the dune surrounding the Sossus Vlei on the first day of my hike through the desert. This by the way was one of the most insane ideas of my life. Not only that it is more than strenuous to tramp along the ridge of the dune wading through knee-high sand, the dune itself is as high as the average multistory building! To tell the truth, these 200 to 300 meters difference in height until you reach the peak cost a lot of sweat – but then you are rewarded with quite a terrific panoramic view. Unfortunately, there is no such thing as even a shack around for thirsty travelers or an old little bench where one could rest the weary bones! The only other thing awaiting you up there is the merciless sun sending stinging rays down on you and – yes! Would you believe it? – Tons of sand! To be honest, I had unknowingly crossed through the pan coming from the parking lot on the way to the peak of the dune. I only recognized the Sossus Vlei from atop. Now, finally, here I was – standing right up there, where I had intended to be. After two hours of exhausting climbing and feeling totally worn-out, the only thing I really wanted was to quietly pass away. On the other hand – I had just reached this spot and wanted to take some great pictures.

It, therefore, was about high time to convince myself of how wonderful this unique situation was, to get my act together and set up the heavy Gitzo (my tripod, which I always drag along everywhere being the ultimate fool) and to eventually start with the job I was originally there for …. Namely: to shoot photos. Now – just to exclude any possible misunderstandings … Yes, of course it is something very special being allowed to be on location personally and to experience all of this. But I think one should keep one’s feet on the ground and try to stay realistic – despite maximum infatuation. An example: If we, the Austrians, would provide our winter sport tourists with a similar service as over here in Namibia, they all would have to carry their skis uphill themselves along with food, beverages and the other necessities! Then – let’s face it … our staggering beautiful mountains should not be mutilated by ugly lifts, don’t you agree? If it would be up to me, I would even forbid building hotels within the mountain regions. Tourists are supposed to get moving 74 km/day in whichever way if they intend to go skiing! That’s as clear as daylight and nobody on earth can doubt this … or would they?? Could it be that – because we are dealing with Africa – one also has to accept entirely different criterions in regard to services? Of course, nobody would expect to be taken to the top of the dunes by lift. That is without a question. But – on the other hand – one could maybe expect a little more intelligence dealing with the opening of the gate. Because – and this is between you and me and the bedpost – it is as pitch-black at 5:45 in the morning as it is half an hour earlier! So, there simply can not be any plausible explanation at all as to why photographers and thousands of others are forced to race their cars at highest speed in order to reach the dunes on time – before sun rise! Now then, due to the fact that I have only visited the Namib Desert once as a tourist with no intention to make it my second residency, I am allowing myself the luxury of a little criticism instead of seeing things through rose-tinted glasses. What doesn’t necessarily mean that I have enjoyed everything to a lesser extent – no, not at all – I only have the displeasing attribute to question whatever comes my way – not only in Namibia. That’s when lame excuses such as, for example: … no lodges are permitted to be built within national parks … really hit you! Nobody seems to question this? Of course, it’s super clever to have tourists drive 150 km on a daily basis. That really helps the environment in national parks … Transferring this insight over to the Kruger National Park this would mean that no lodges are permitted within the site! Well then, thank you ever so much – does this strike you as being realistic? Okay – let’s quit the criticism and carry on with the adventure … so here I was …. right in the middle of the Namib Desert. Since I had already seen thousands of pictures of these dunes, I honestly did not know what to do; which part – which angle – was not yet taken? Especially the famous Dune 45 felt like a thorn in my side and I promised myself secretly that I would never shoot a photo of it. Who on earth is interested in a picture of Dune 45 now-a-days? There is hardly another site in the world that has been photographed as often and as professionally as this huge, relatively standing-alone dune. Beyond any doubt – the scenery is absolutely well worth seeing. But does one have to circle around this one and only dune just because the access to others is barred from the public? Exactly, and I am sure you reached the same conclusion – I decided to shoot a lot of pictures. Of all the dunes around – excluding the Nr. 45!

That turned out to be more than easy since there are truly dozens of motives on the 74 km drive starting from the gate up to the Vlei. Even if only trivial looking, star-shaped dunes dominate the valley of the Sossus Vlei, a few isolated, already withering camel-thorn trees are a welcome diversion to the eyes on the way. These trees are mute contemporary witnesses of rich water supplies in the past. Occasionally you can come across one or the other ostrich or some Oryx-antelopes. With a little bliss and a strong telescope you might even be able to take a few pictures. Unfortunately, the distance to these escaping animals is quite big and you have to have a lot of luck to capture them on celluloid.

Despite hiking up and down the dunes and shooting a few nice photos I have to admit that I was a bit disappointed at the end of my first day. My expectations were – obviously – set too high and although the weather could not have presented itself any better, I was unable to really chum up with this inhospitable location. I even tended to ask myself what on earth could motivate the usual tourist to travel around over here. Because hardly anybody I met was a professional photographer. Okay – now-a-days everybody seems to possess a digital camera – that is true, but I’m sorry to say that less and less can really handle one. Back in “analogue times” you had to buy films, shoot pictures, then have them developed – all that did cost a lot of money and you very carefully pondered over every single shot that would be worthwhile going through all the hassle only to be shown off at home. But today you don’t even take costs into consideration anymore because photos just cost free memory space on your computer and nothing else.

After consuming a whole bottle of South African Shiraz and sleeping through a very short night, I awoke freezing again around 5 a.m. Being the second at the gate, I managed to get to the all-wheel site in time, got out of the car, switched to the right wheel hub and was more than astonished to see two strangers – who had driven away far ahead of me – dash towards me gesticulating like maniacs. It so happened that they intended to be at the Dead Vlei before sun set as well but could not get hold of a 4x4 vehicle. Of course you do not see any locals around at this time of the day, which would – demanding rip off payment – be prepared to get any potential tourist the last few kilometers over to the dunes. They usually turn up when the show is over.... with slow motion movements! Due to the fact that I happen to be a very social guy, I gladly gave the Spanish couple a lift. Imagine this: they were on their honeymoon…!??! Arriving at the parking lot of the Dead Vlei, I even donated a big bottle of water because they had left theirs in the car when jumping out to address me. Then we all marched on together towards Dead Vlei and promptly lost our way. After the second dune we had finished off slipping and sliding around, I was on the verge of collapsing and close to getting a heart attack. I was also weighing the thought if I should not take pictures of more approachable objects in the future … Only yesterday I had successfully managed the 300 m high dune behind the Sossus Vlei – arriving after a 36 hours journey – and today I only had to cope with two small dunes and still there was no Dead Vlei yet in sight! I was – to say the least – a bit unnerved and absolutely whacked out. Deciding to take a break, I stopped on the ridge of the second dune. The nice Spanish guy, anxious to please, sent his wife ahead to sort out our present situation and to find out if the Dead Vlei, hopefully, would be right behind the next dune. After a couple of minutes we received the message – yes, we were on the right path, which instantaneously put us all out of our misery. Breathing a sigh of relief I dragged the 21 kg photo equipment plus the heavy Gitzo G 1549 MK II over the next dune – gathering my last available strength together and then finally we all reached the spot we were looking for. With just a tiny little detour of one middle-sized dune, but – nevertheless … I had made it … all the way to the famous Dead Vlei. Now, here I was, my energy completely wasted due to the strains of the last days but perfectly happy to have arrived. Then it was high time to motivate myself again because the sun had already risen and I knew that the time slot for taking a few cool pictures would be extremely short. So I had to get my act together and get started quickly. A few sips of water out of my bottle and then off to position my tripod. It is truly not difficult to pick a beautiful motive around here – the only problem is that every single spot has already been banned on celluloid. Believe me, scarcely a single tree has been left out photography-wise in the past 30 years – seen and taken from every possible angle!